We had many adventures in July, but none so spectacular as the picnic. Yes I had an amazing birthday party at Nihco marine park, yes we had a fantastic birthday boat cruise, yes we celebrated Mollie’s birthday/4th of July with hundreds of Navy seamen, yes we had countless watersporting days, and yes we bid farewell to many of our favorite menwai, but the picnic day takes the prize.
So Mollie’s lovely parents traveled from Southern California to visit our little Pacific island. And to celebrate, Mollie’s host family in Madolenihmw [mad-doll-len-EEM] hosted a picnic. Great, sounds fun, what can I bring, when does it start, can I show up a little late. Obviously, I didn’t know what a picnic entails. It’s an all-day affair. And it takes place on an island. They laughed at me when I didn’t know that picnicking means taking your entire extended family on a boat trip to an island to eat and swim all day. I’d kinda like to see this happen in Rhode Island.
Hundreds of people (maybe actually 35) board two small fishing skiffs for a 30 minute cruise through the lagoon out to Nah island. Nah is a small deserted reef island with coconut trees and a sandy beach. When we arrive, the most orchestrated division of labor ensues. What I’m about to describe is indigenous culture at its finest. This is what happens when you remove the cars and the buildings and the container stores and the nonsense. 
Within 5 minutes, the women have set up cooking stations. Foods prepared at the different stations include pineapple, papaya, breadfruit, yams, and cooking bananas. The men have several small fires lit fueled by coconut shells and dry wood before descending into the jungle armed with machetes. Within 15 minutes, the men have built a Hawaiian style buffet table for the feast and then leave in the boats to fish using hand-lines and spears. (This is the same host father, pahpa, that produced that gorgeous multi-colored lobster for my birthday.) If you’re wondering what the children are up to, they are playing and splashing in the water and laughing with record-breaking decibel levels. Within 30 minutes, the men have returned with several reef fish, mostly red snapper. The fish goes directly onto the fire next to the chicken. Mollie’s host mother, her nohno, is quietly weaving flowered maramars for the celebrated guests. We swim and play with the children until finally the feast is ready.
These are the healthy local foods that we wish were still diet staples of the island. For Pohnpeians, and many other pacific islanders, the fruit, vegetables, and fish have largely been replaced by ramen, spam, rice, corned beef hash, and kool-aid. God I feel so privileged to taste these local foods prepared in local style. A rarity to say the least. The feast is delicious, and the children teach me how to say ‘I like to eat fish.’ I perenki kang mwahmw. 
While we eat, Mollie’s parents and I are presented with the flowered maramar crowns and the speeches begin. In typical Pohnpei style, speeches are a combination of thanks, praise, apologies, more praise, and then some good wishes for the future. Mollie’s mother Kathy delivers a similar translated speech to the host family and there are few dry eyes. Mollie is nearing the end of her two year peace corps service and has built strong ties with her host family. It’s emotional to see these two worlds meet, share, and exchange all thanks to some good old fashioned volunteer work.
The picnic feast is pretty epic in its own right without the added excursion to Nan Madol. Nan Madol is one of the most amazing anthropological sights in the Pacific. It is the stone remains of an ancient city build on the coast. Shortly after feasting, we arrive to the ruins by boat, courtesy of Mollie’s pahpa, and explore the city of the kings. Where did these long cylindrical stones come from, and how on earth did they get here? How were they lifted and stacked so neatly? Who were the people who lived here? They are geometric fortresses separated by straight canals in an intricate and overgrown lattice. There was some serious urban planning that went into the construction. And it’s not like an American historical sight, not fenced off, no park rangers. You climb and investigate at your own leisure with no one looking over your shoulder. It’s quiet and still except for the jungle sounds and exotic birds swooping through. Is there any other way to explore ancient ruins? Such fantastic food, culture, and archeology!
