As my departure from Pohnpei is nearing, I expect these posts will become more reflective and sentimental. This island has been a great introduction to social and cultural experiment. As in, let's see what happens if we take an isolated group of Pacific peoples and put them through four Western occupations and one world war and then give them a psuedo-American government and some money to play with each year.
The inspiration for this post came from a dream I had last night which took place in some sort of eastern European country. The terrain was rugged and rocky and the people herded goats with machine guns up and down steep mountain faces. A squabble in a nearby village resulted in a giant explosion which leveled the town. Now without trying to psychoanalyze my weird violent dreams, it made me realize just how safe and lovely Pohnpei is.
There's a very fine balance of elements keeping all the demons at bay. Crime, violence, and drug use are very low. There is a local jail, but apparently, the incarcerated are allowed go home to their families at night. There aren't any personal firearms save a few BB guns for hunting chickens. Local Pohnpeians make very little income relatively (minimum wage = $1.35 USD), but enough so that no one is homeless and no one goes hungry. Okay there are 2 crazy homeless people in town, but they are the type that wanted to be crazy and homeless.
For the most part, the people are sweet and loving and very Christian. And in the Pohnpeian manifestation of Christianity, people are held accountable for their actions yet completely absolved following repent. For example, a man will cheat on his wife and apologize in public at church and will be forgiven and free to resume his life with his family and maybe cheat again if he feels like it. I wonder if the generous, welcoming, family oriented traits were intrinsically Pacific or a result from the Christianity. While I frown upon outside religious influence on indigenous peoples, I also wonder what Pacific people would be like if not for Christian missionaries. Would there still be a sense of accountability? Would family and community ties be as strong? The Church is such an integral part of Pacific life that I can't help but think that it is responsible for some of the favorable cultural elements.
Now while I describe this perfect little utopia, keep in mind that Pohnpei is just teetering on collapse. We discuss at length the devastation if methamphetamines arrive. If China builds that godforsaken casino in Madolenihmw. If the US withdraws compact funds. If the lagoon becomes overfished--oh wait. And not to mention the encroaching dengue epidemic in neighboring Yap. Remember in The Gods Must Be Crazy when all it took was one soda bottle to corrupt a society? Here tourism remains low because Continental/United keeps a monopoly on the flights deferring potential investors to Fiji or Samoa. As a result of ridiculously expensive airfares, all the expats/foreigners on island work directly for the island in some capacity, okay maybe not the Tuna Commission.
So combining warm climate, low income, US compact funds, plentiful food supplies, reduced access to drugs, strong Christian values, and reduced access to airfare, these influencing elements somehow keep Pohnpei relatively stable and lovely and safe. Pohnpei, I am impressed by your resilience, and I implore you to retain your culture and stave off the demons in the uncertain years to come. Thank you for having me, and I hope to return soon.
No comments:
Post a Comment